TURNBERRY, Scotland – Playing classic links on the auld sod of Great Britain & Ireland is an experience to savor, similar to other indigenous classics like London dry gin, single-malt scotch, Irish whiskey, and stout.
A connoisseur of these links and libations will certainly get his fill and satisfy his fancy on whatever sod he chooses, be it England, Northern Ireland, the Republic, Scotland, or Wales. The burning questions, therefore, are where to go, what courses to play, and who will organize the logistics.
2024 Ayrshire Links Invitational
Our foursome opted to go for the Glenfiddich — leaving the Tanqueray, Bushmills, Jameson, and Guinness for another sojourn or two. And we opted to play at Royal Troon, Western Gailes, Panmure Golf Club and Ailsa and King Robert the Bruce at Trump Turnberry. Sean Winton, founder of Golf Inspired, a division of his Distincte Travel Group, provided the expert guidance.
Tommy Gorman, publisher of Pro Golf Weekly and my editor, met Sean at January’s PGA Merchandise Show in Orlando. Tommy was impressed by both Sean’s vast knowledge of the golf travel industry based on his 28 years of experience and his outgoing, amiable demeanor. Tommy was also smitten by Sean’s mid-August arrangements for Scotland.
Tommy emailed me the proposal entitled “Sqairz Presents The 2024 Ayrshire Links Invitational” to see if Vicky and I wanted to join Janet and him for the Golf Inspired week “to be hosted on Scotland’s picturesque Ayrshire coast at the incomparable Trump Turnberry Resort.”
Vicky and I read the itinerary carefully and were as taken with it as Tommy was. We also appreciated that Golf Inspired would assist us with pre- and/or post-tour extensions if we so desired.
Celebration of the Game of Golf
We especially liked Sean’s ethos: “Golf Inspired is about the celebration of the game of golf; good living shared by like-minded individuals seeking memorable experiences. Our team specializes in creating relaxed and fun-filled environments in some of the world’s most iconic destinations. Ayrshire is one of those iconic destinations.”
When Tommy and I covered the LIV Golf Miami championship at Trump Doral in early April, the four of us discussed what our plans and hopes for the trip should be, including both a pre-tour weekend in St. Andrews with a round of golf at nearby Panmure Golf Club and a post-tour extra day near Edinburgh Airport (EDI) before flying home.
Soon thereafter, Sean arranged a Skype video conference, where the five of us hammered out exactly what we could expect and how we could visit St. Andrews on our own and stay an extra day.
Sean assured us that Golf Inspired would transform the many disconcerting variables of international travel and touring into easy-to-handle certainties. And he was absolutely right!
Etched in Stone and in the Air
By the middle of July, our plans were etched in stone. We had paid $9990 per couple for the Ayrshire Links Invitational and an extra $1200 per couple for our St. Andrews weekend and extra day in Queensferry near EDI.
We would spend five nights at Trump Turnberry, play four rounds of golf, get both RT transfers from EDI and RT golf transfers to Troon and Western Gailes, have welcome and farewell restaurant dinners plus lunches each day at the golf club we were playing, enjoy a full Scottish breakfast each morning in the hotel, and receive a Welcome Gift Bag and a pair of Sqairz Links Golf Shoes of our choice.
On Thursday evening, August 14, we left Boston’s Logan Airport, Tommy and Janet flying Delta and Vicky and I on Aer Lingus, arriving at EDI early Friday morning. We had been in touch with Sean through “Whats App,” and he would use this app to communicate with us throughout the trip. Sean told us he had a Golf City Taxis driver and a van waiting to take us to St. Andrews, but we all had to wait because Aer Lingus had misplaced my golf bag. I filed the claim with Swissport baggage at EDI, and the four of us began our trip at last.
Weekend at St. Andrews
Golf City Taxis deposited us at the digs Sean had found for us at the University of St. Andrews’ Agnes Blackadder Hall, a modern dormitory with two double beds in a large room with private bathroom and a daily buffet breakfast. The University is located a driver and five iron from the 17th green of the Old Course and an easy walk to downtown St. Andrews and the Market Street shopping area.
We spent Friday afternoon exploring the “Home of Golf” as the Old Course was undergoing finishing installation touches for the next week’s AIG Women’s Open. We had our pictures taken on Swilcan Bridge after a group had teed off the 18th hole, strolled up The Links road past Rusacks Hotel and the 18th green, and then took a left to stand in front of the R&A clubhouse to watch golfers tee off on one and putt out on 18.
As green with envy as the layout in front of us, we repaired to nearby Pilmour Links road and the well-known 19th Hole at Dunvegan’s Hotel for some liquid solace and dinner. With our spirits renewed, we then spent some more of the long day’s sunlight and some more of our British pounds as we perused the Scottish shops on Market Street. None of us had any difficulty falling asleep that night.
The next morning Agnes Blackadder made us a delicious breakfast in the dorm’s cafeteria. Right on time, Golf City Taxis, home office in the golf city of St. Andrews, of course, picked us up and drove us the 35 minutes to Panmure Golf Club in Barry, just 1.5 miles from frequent Open site Carnoustie. A delightful classic Scottish course that opened in 1845, Panmure provided the four of us with a grand time, which I recently wrote up for Pro Golf Weekly.
Trump Turnberry Is a World of Its Own
On Sunday morning, we said goodbye to St. Andrews after our short but memorable respite when the dependable GCT driver returned us to EDI, where we easily met Sean Winton, his team, and the other invitees who were joining us in “the celebration of the game.”
Sean, who knew the shortcomings of reclaiming missing luggage, accompanied me to Swissport baggage and ran interference for me. The golf bag had been found but could not be recovered until Monday. Therefore, Sean made sure it would be delivered to Trump Turnberry ASAP. Until then, Sean assured me the rental clubs at the resort would be fine—he was right—and that Aer Lingus would reimburse me if I carefully filled out their website Missing Baggage form—he was right again.
Trump Turnberry is a 90-minute drive west from EDI and sits majestically on the coast with a superb view of the Isle of Arran, Ailsa Craig, and the Irish Sea. A five-star resort and a four-time Open host, Trump Turnberry won the Scottish Hotel of the Year in 2018. That award presaged the 2024 reception and experience we had in the Turnberry world of luxury, dining options, service, golf, and amenities. As Sean had written, Turnberry is one of “the world’s most iconic destinations.”
The accommodations for the 28 of us under Sean’s tutelage were away from main hotel in what are called The Lodges. The spacious and well-appointed rooms were most comfortable and had modern bathrooms with walk-in showers and a tub. A heated towel rack above the tub came in handy for drying out rain gear and wet clothes when Nature turned ugly on us. Sean chose The Lodges for us because each one had an expansive social/large screen TV/kitchen area on the second floor, perfect for group get togethers. Sean kept the fridge stocked with soft drinks and beer and snacks.
Our Introduction to the Five-Star Resort
That Sunday afternoon we did have a break-the-ice group get together at The Wee Links, the 18-hole pitch and putt course in front of the hotel. Sean introduced us to Paul Cormack, caddie for Lydia Ko and Brand Ambassador for Golf Inspired. Paul, who had just come from the Women’s Scottish Open at nearby Dundonald Links where Lydia finished 9th, showed us the flag he had taken from the 18th hole at Le Golf National in France where Lydia won the Gold Medal and a spot in the LPGA Hall of Fame. He regaled us with stories about her incredible play and her indomitable spirit. Little did he know that a week later she would birdie the 72nd hole to win the Women’s Open, but he did say she was playing so well and wanted to win that major so badly.
We then played The Wee Links in an enthusiastic manner, applauded the winner who shot a 5-under 49, and recognized Vicky for her ace on the 18th hole. Dinner was in the Duel in the Sun restaurant in the clubhouse/pro shop building, overlooking the Ailsa and King Robert the Bruce courses. Named after the unusually beautiful day and the legendary mano-a-mano Open final round between Tom Watson and Jack Nicklaus (aka Duel in the Sun) in 1977, where Watson won by a shot, the restaurant sports memorabilia from that contest and offers delicious local cuisine.
On Monday morning and each morning thereafter, we all had a full Scottish breakfast in the 1906 Room, named after the year the resort opened, and we could order from the specialty menu and/or take advantage of the lavish buffet. Most of us chose the “and.” None of us went hungry. FYI, dinner begins in the 1906 Room at, naturally, 19:06.
Round One on King Robert the Bruce
The golf then began in earnest on King Robert the Bruce with optional daily Skins Game and four-round Stableford competition. The pro shop provided me with TaylorMade woods and irons that worked admirably for rentals. The facilities include a driving range, putting green, short game practice area, and state-of-the-game Golf Academy.
The historical King Robert led Scotland to independence from England in 1314, and the famous Turnberry Lighthouse at the turn on the Ailsa course stands among the ruins of his birthplace (1274) and his medieval castle.
The King Robert course is the new name for the old, former course Kintyre. Martin Ebert, who upgraded Ailsa in 2016 to rave reviews, took Kintyre and reworked the basically parkland course into a much more playable gorse and heather-lined layout with several spectacular new coastal holes that take maximum visual advantage of Turnberry’s famous landmarks, Ailsa Craig and the lighthouse. Ebert extended the back tees to 7,203 yards with three other tees at 6,594, 6,299 and 5,767. The greens are huge, fast, undulating, and frustrating. King Robert allows golfers to take buggies if they so desire, but a forecaddie is required.
The Gorman-MacKay foursome found the course to be a good test of ball placement and pitching/chipping skills. The views from the newly designed holes were exceptional. Unlike the Watson-Nicklaus duel in the sun, we began our duel with the rain early, received a period of tranquility, and then played 18 in a downpour. We were pleased we had our heated towel racks.
Royal Troon and Western Gailes
Tuesday was very special – the Royal Troon day. The forty-minute drive took us by both Alloway, the domicile of national poet Robert Burns, and Dundonald Links, the venue of the Women’s Scottish Open won by Lauren Coughlin. We had lunch in the Troon clubhouse and had time to explore its plethora of history. Everyone who watched Xander Schauffele post an impressive 9-under par and heroic two-stroke triumph at The Open knows that Troon is one of the best links courses in Scotland and one of the best layouts in the world. No question about it.
Our foursome had knowledgeable caddies, who greatly increased our appreciation of the intricacies of Royal Troon. For 16 holes, we played our own version of The Open. Then our duel began again on the 17th tee in a torrent, and we finished 18 without a dry spot on our bodies. Hot showers cleansed our disappointment, and cold lagers refreshed our equanimity.
Wednesday brought us to Western Gailes and a discernible treat. Although the wind was howling and the duel look imminent, we couldn’t wait to have this links course test our mettle. The reputation of Western Gailes as one of the game’s finest and more exacting courses is well deserved. The first five holes were downwind and presented the usual rolling terrain, elevated tees and greens, “proper” Scottish bunkers, thick fescue and purple heather.
The next 10 holes paralleled the beach and ocean, and the wind was in our face. Tommy and I were playing the second set of tees at 6,106-yards, and Janet and Vicky were playing at 5,441, but we might as well have been playing the tips at 7,014. The par-3 13th, a par 3, turned us away from the wind, and the 14th started us downwind again to the clubhouse. Unfortunately, the rain followed us in, but Western Gailes remains unblemished in my pantheon of links jewels. We had a hot Scottish lunch in the grill room and used “the drying room” for our soaked outerwear.
All Hail Ailsa!
Thursday was a hallelujah day! First, my golf clubs arrived in time for me to play Ailsa. Second, we almost did have a “duel in the sun,” as we rejoiced on a perfect day to play golf. Ailsa, after Ebert’s ministrations, is the number one golf course in GB&I and a must play.
My caddie Jack was an excellent advice giver and a better raconteur about the history and personalities who played at Ailsa. We had a good, long walk together as we traversed the layout.
The pros play the tips at 7,501 yards, but Tommy and I played at 6,110, although some in our group played the 6,543 tees. Janet and Vicky played at 5,412. The course was in pristine condition, and Jack had no trouble reading the greens for me. However, I might have had a little trouble in following his directions.
Much of our time was spent using our cells to take pictures. The Gorman-MacKay foursome reveled in the Ailsa quest and realized how fortunate we were to have played such a unique course.
Farewell but Still Golf Inspired
Sean treated us all to a Farewell Dinner at Wildings Restaurant in the next town of Maidens, where Sean, born in Glasgow, spent his youth. His bio states, “At 15, he immigrated with his family to New Hampshire, igniting a lifelong passion for travel exploration and entrepreneurship.”
We were serenaded by a bagpiper and an accordion player during Happy Hour, and we dined on the fresh local fare that the Scottish love—and now we do, too. We said farewell to our fellow “like-minded individuals seeking memorable experiences” and agreed that the week would be something we would never forget.
Friday morning the four of us used the transfer from Trump Turnberry to EDI, where we boarded a shuttle to the Dakota Hotel in Queensferry.
Vicky and I the toured the quaint harbor town and visited, on purpose, the Hawes Inn on the waterfront where Robert Louis Stevenson penned his novel “Kidnapped.” Janet and Tom spent the day in Edinburgh. On Saturday, the shuttle returned us to EDI; our Scottish adventure had concluded.
Most importantly, as Sean had promised, Golf Inspired had removed all the variables of international travel into certainties. And we were certain we had just finished an inspired golf vacation.
To learn at what other locations Golf Inspired will host future golf trips and for more information, visit their website.
For a more detailed info about Trump Turnberry, visit the website at Turnberry.co.uk.
